Category Archives: Churches and Cathedrals

Petite Chapelle Dans Les Bois – Little Chapel In The Woods Memorial

Abruptly turning the steering wheel, he directed the van along an ever-climbing and sharply twisting road until we arrived at the top and I saw the sign. Mark had decided to surprise me with a visit to La Petite Chapelle (the little chapel) perched high on an overlook above Mortain in Normandy, France.

Walking down the gravel path through tall trees toward the Petite Chapelle in Mortain, Normandy, France

Walking down a gravel path through the fragrant pines, we reached the tiny stone chapel, built in the late 1700s and then reconstructed in the 1850s, which is now dedicated to the American forces who lost their lives defending this strategic position from the advancing German troops and tanks during World War II.

La Petite Chapelle perched high atop Mortain, Normandy, France

Two marble memorial plaques stand in commemoration of their sacrifice.

Monument to the 30th Infantry in the woods outside the Petite Chapelle in Mortain, Normandy, France

Small memorial slab commemorating the participation of the 35th Infantry at the Battle of Mortain

The 30th Infantry is particularly highlighted and honoured for their role in the staggeringly intense Battle of Mortain as related in this historical report.

When you pass through the outcropping of boulders that snug the sides of the tiny chapel and venture out to the back, a steep set of stone stairs is set into that shallow bit of remaining land behind the chapel and those stairs lead to a viewing platform.

Twisty stone stairs leading to viewing platform behind the Petite Chapelle in Mortain, Normandy, France

The chapel itself is perched rather close to the end of the summit and you only realise that when you stand on the viewing platform and look back.

Back of the Petite Chapelle in Mortain, Normandy, France from the viewing platform

As long as you are not afraid of heights, the view from the top is breathtaking. On a clear day you are able to see for miles around including the seacoast beyond and Mont St. Michel in the distance. It’s obvious from the panoramic view that the American forces which were holding this position knew how vital it was to keep this high ground so that they could not only see any German troops on the way, they could maintain an ability to rain their weapons fire down onto the Germans who were struggling up the steep terrain.

A clear view for miles all around from atop the Petite Chapelle lookout in Mortain, Normandy, France

Today the land around the chapel in the woods is a silent place, a peaceful place — but still filled with memories and echoes of the past.

Entry to La Petite Chapelle perched high atop Mortain in Normandy, France

Beautiful Bayeux Cathedral

The spires thrust high into the skies over Normandy — asserting themselves proudly over the smaller stone or timber and plaster buildings all around. There are far too many ancient cathedrals and churches to count in France, but this one had a special air about it that broadcast its importance.

Bayeux Cathedral -- Notre Dame de Bayeux exterior

Ornate roofline and spires of the Bayeux Cathedral

The historic Bayeux Cathedral in Normandy, France is such a beautiful building and has such a wonderful atmosphere that I thought it deserved a separate photo essay of its own. This was the original home of the Bayeux Tapestry, now housed in a separate museum a mere few blocks from the cathedral. It was consecrated by William the Conqueror, also known as William, Duke of Normandy and King of England, on the 14th of July 1077 — a mere 11 years after the Norman conquest of England.

Heavily detailed exterior of the Bayeux Cathedral

This 11th-13th century masterpiece of architecture is astonishingly light and airy inside due to the number of windows which punctuate the deep stone walls. The ornamentation is simply beautiful, so I have included several photos of interesting details.

Interior of the Bayeux Cathedral

Quatrefoil detail in stone inside the Bayeux Cathedral

Ornate details on interior of Bayeux Cathedral

The Dragonslayer in a side chapel at the Bayeux Cathedral

The crypts have an energy all their own which is quite different from the hustle and bustle of the ‘upstairs’ main church. But occasionally when there are other people down in the crypts, some rather annoyingly ignoring the signs indicating that NO FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY is to be used, you simply have to wait for a few minutes for the clattering and shuffling in and out to cease.

Entry to the crypt from the side aisle of the Bayeux Cathedral

Frescos on arches in the crypt of the Bayeux Cathedral

Angel fresco on top of a column in the crypt of the Bayeux Cathedral

Then, in that tiny space of a moment or two, you can feel the energy shift back to an interesting state of otherworldliness and even the sound of your breath looms large. This is a very popular tourist site, even out of season, so you must purposefully snatch those moments of serenity whenever it is possible.

Mark absorbing the brief and fellow-tourist-free serenity of the crypt at Bayeux Cathedral

Bayeux in France: The Tapestry and Beyond

Bayeux — another French town that bears the unfortunate description of ‘badly damaged by World War II bombing.’

Memorial to the 50th Northumbrian troops killed in and around Bayeux during World War II

But the real claim to fame is that it hosts the amazing Bayeux Tapestry. We’ve been looking forward to viewing this ever since our first visit to Normandy earlier in the year, so I was quite pleased that we managed to fit a day’s expedition to Bayeux into this particular multi-month stay in Normandy.

It’s a charming small town and, in contrast to the concrete bunker-ish appearance of the reconstructed St. Lo, this town has been rebuilt with sensitivity to historic style by using the traditional building material of stone.

Late autumn amongst the stone buildings of Bayeux in Normandy, France

A street in Bayeux in Normandy, France

Entry to the Moulin Restaurant in Bayeux, Normandy, France

We rambled down the cobblestone streets and decided to go see the beautiful Bayeux Cathedral (also called the Notre Dame Cathedral of Bayeux) that we had glimpsed peeking over the roofs of the surrounding buildings. This was the original home of the Bayeux Tapestry. It is a simply splendid cathedral and well worth a visit if you are in Bayeux to visit the famous tapestry. It’s a mere few blocks to walk from one site to another, so it’s quite easy to see both places if you only have a few hours to spend in the town. I’ll post a large selection of photos of the cathedral exterior, interior, and the wonderfully atmospheric crypt in a future article.

The lovely Notre Dame Cathedral in Bayeux, Normandy, France

We arrived at the museum, stood in a short line to gain entry (€7.60 each for admission), and then proceeded into the large display room. Every visitor is assigned a self-guided-tour device in their choice of language and that device auto-activates as you stand in front of each numbered section of the tapestry.

Museum containing the Bayeux Tapestry in Bayeux, Normandy, France

The Bayeax Tapestry isn’t actually a tapestry done in needlepoint at all! It is a rather vast embroidery done on a very long swath of linen.

Because of the age of the item and the need to protect the fragile 70 metre long fabric from the light, the display is in a darkened room and absolutely no photography is allowed. So I have no firsthand photos to show you. But you can click on the highlighted links above and below for more information.

What struck both of us was the almost comic-book like quality of this vast piece of embroidery that has survived invasions and world wars! In centuries past, the Bayeux Tapestry was exhibited once each year within the Bayeux Cathedral to show the citizens the history of the Norman Conquest of England at the Battle of Hastings in 1066. This marvelous piece was commissioned to be created quite shortly after the battle itself. We found it fascinating to look at and we had several laughs at the humour that was quite effectively portrayed in the embroidered illustrations.

Cartoon-like whispering courtiers behind the king as depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry in Bayeux, Normandy, France.

As we left the museum, Mark remarked that it was a funny place to see the Emergency Room entrance to the local hospital — right across the narrow street from the tapestry museum.

Emergency entrance to the Bayeux Hospital directly across from the Bayeux Tapestry Museum

For a change of pace from the World War II history in Normandy, Bayeux is certainly a recommended spot for a day out.

16 Years And Counting in St. Lo

It was a gray and gloomy day — and it wasn’t exactly the usual way to spend a 16th wedding anniversary. But it seemed just right by our standards.

We began our day at the Prefecture in St. Lo to get the last of the paperwork done for registering our van in France. This has all been quite a complicated process requiring visits to rather a lot of government offices, but that’s a post for another day. We spent about 45 minutes waiting for our number to be called and then we were back out on the street about 10 minutes later.

Prefecture in St. Lo where we went to register our van

St. Lo is one of the many towns or villages that was almost entirely destroyed by bombs during World War II, so very few of the buildings in the town appear to be of any real age. Planted right in the middle of the municipal parking lot is a particularly ugly (in my personal opinion!) viewing tower that can be climbed for a view over the town.

Observation tower in the central parking lot in St. Lo, Normandy, France

The center part of the town is almost completely comprised of squarish or rectangular concrete buildings that are rather devoid of charm. Fortunately there are still some buildings with a bit of extra ornamentation.

Government office building in St. Lo, Normandy, France

According to the Wikipedia entry for St. Lo, the Notre Dame church seen in the photo below was one of the only buildings left standing after the Allied bombing.

Notre Dame church in St. Lo, Normandy, France

The old tower in the fortified wall is another survivor.

Tower in the ancient fortified wall of St. Lo, Normandy, France

And the remnants of this bombed out building facade have been rededicated as a memorial for the Jews in the area who were persecuted or killed.

Memorial to the local population of persecuted or killed Jews in St. Lo, Normandy, France

We had a lovely plat du jour luncheon of salmon lasagna, salad, wine, and expresso and then walked through the town for awhile.

Mark enjoying a plat du jour luncheon in St. Lo, Normandy, France

It’s been a strange experience to live in a place that has seen so much military action. And as we walk through each reconstructed town, it’s hard to imagine that places like St. Lo and Villers Bocage were 99% flattened by the aerial bombing.

Mark looking at the architecture of St. Lo, Normandy, France

Below are some random photos from our day out. Come back soon for more visits to World War II locations here in Normandy.

Brocante Collections poster for a vintage goods show in St. Lo, Normandy, France

Poster for a lecture on the natural beauty of New Zealand in a window in St. Lo, Normandy, France

Distance signs to various global locations in St. Lo, Normandy, France

Berlin On A Sunny Sunday – Part Two

“Watch where you walk, Deborah!” I looked back at Mark after looking down immediately, expecting to be about to step into dog poo or some other such ickiness. Then I realized what he was referring to — the red-tinged separate lane — the bike lane which I was meant to avoid so I didn’t get mowed down by the cyclists pedaling through Berlin.

An occasional cloud punctuated the otherwise deeply blue sky and the parks were filled with people. But we walked for hours as I raised my voice slightly on occasion — “Stopping!” — to alert my husband Mark and our friend Stefan to the fact that I was stopping to take another photo.

The entire area around the museums is full of construction and excavation of one kind or another, so keep your wits about you as you walk. It isn’t just a wander into the bike lane that might ‘get you!’

And here are some of the pictures from that glorious day in Berlin. Enjoy!

Neo-classical museum exteriors on Museum Island in Berlin

The Berliner Dom -- Berlin Cathedral

Canalside park in Berlin

Detail on bridge over canal in Berlin

Banner for exhibit at Historical Museum

Ornate ironwork on window in Berlin

Excavation everywhere along the Unter den Linden

Again? Stefan and Mark react when I say I am stopping for photos!

Bullet Holes Remember Berlin’s Past

The signal sent to my consciousness was a slight prickling of the skin at the back of my neck as the baby-fine hairs raised and brushed against my silk scarf. “We’re walking around in history. Can you feel it?”

“Yes,” Mark answered — “and those are bullet holes all over that building!”

A sunny Sunday in Berlin — Easter Sunday in fact — and there were throngs of people in the public squares. But the side streets were quiet and I was able to take quite a lot of photos without being jostled by crowds.

The buildings around us were a mix of old and new and some of them still retained their stunning late-19th or early-20th century facades. Although I am a huge fan of modernism and contemporary architecture, these handsome structures made me wish that all new construction still had such attention paid to the small details and bits of ornamentation.

On either side of that visually arresting entry were the bullet holes — intentionally left unrepaired so memories of the tumultuous past of this city do not entirely fade.

Architectural detail of classical head over entry of building from early 1900s

World War II bullet holes in stone building

Bullet holes in stone building

Further down the street, we had a chance to have a laugh and then do a double-take. Here’s why.

Four weeks ago we were in London and we passed by the short street leading to 10 Downing Street where the British Prime Minister resides. The amount of security personnel and high tech security gear all around that area was rather interesting to see. Apparently, much like the President of the USA, both heads of state believe that they are in a constant state of threat.

Now contrast that with the pictures of the residence below. And this is where the Chancellor of Germany, Angela Merkel lives. Not only are there only two guards out front, but there is a man with two red shopping bags having a casual conversation with the guards while a young dark-haired woman sits on the edge of the sidewalk. You can even see the cones and bit of construction items including a site caravan from the ongoing construction all up and down that street. There are no high tech gates or fences or any such ‘necessary’ items of security outside. Even the windows are quite open to the front of the very accessible street. She may live quite high up in the building and the inside may be fortified, but the very fact that she lives on a normal street instead of behind locked gates shows an amazing sense of trust. And I find all of that quite refreshing!

Apparently low-tech security at Chancellor Merkel's house

Come back soon for another post from beautiful and fascinating Berlin!

Heilandskirche – Waiting Near The Waterside, Trapped by the Berlin Wall

“We might be too late for photographs,” he said. But we quickly left the car and hurried up the gravel path, swishing aside the clouds of mosquitoes in the air as we walked. I heard myself exclaim aloud, “Oh my!” And I sped up a bit since the sun was swiftly sinking and the sky was already flat and gray.

Italian Romanesque Revival style Campanile at the Heilandskirche near Berlin

I might have momentarily thought that I was standing on the edge of a lake in Italy — but I was at the waterside in Germany, looking at a the Heilandskirche, the Church of the Redeemer — a place that was frozen in time and held hostage for decades by the construction of the Berlin Wall.

Heilandskirche at the water's edge

Gazing up at the campanile and ambling through the solemn but serene columned arcade on either side of the church, I could barely imagine how devastated the parish would have been when the wall was built right up to the church and the GDR border troops prevented people from entering for worship.

Columned walkway on right side of the Heilandskirche

And so it sat — crumbling into disrepair until the Berlin Wall came down, a campaign was mounted to raise funds to restore the church, and once again everyday citizens and tourists alike could have a quiet moment by those now-peaceful shores.

Columned walkway on left side of Heilandskirche

Sculpted plaque on the courtyard side of the Campanile

As you look at the picture of the columned walkway above, you can see a tower in East Berlin off in the foggy distance on the other shore of the lake.

I am grateful to our friend Stefan Hoffmann for taking us to this remarkable place and sharing the story with us this week.

A Wanderful Life

The Neverending Journey